Review: The Candied Walnut

The Candied Walnut

Portarlington, Co. Laois

Today, Ali and I found ourselves in Portarlington for  lunch. We'd been visiting Lisa Nic Eoin's Cats Without Homes sanctuary who we foster kittens with. I did a quick search on TripAdvisor to see what the town had to offer and we settled on The Candied Walnut, a not so visible restaurant on the Monasterevin side of town.

The Candied Walnut is a beautiful restaurant located at Kilnacourt. Upon arrival, the restaurant was busy and we had to wait ten minutes for a table, surely a good sign. We were seated and received a welcome from one of the chef's through the kitchen hatch. The breakfast and lunch menu is well laid out with plenty of options to choose from. The breakfast options looked reasonably priced while lunch had the usual sandwiches and wraps along with some main courses and desserts. The specials board hangs on the wall and we both decided on the fish special; cod and prawn penne with a white wine and cream sauce.

The food arrived quickly and was delicious. Both the fish and sauce were tasty and seasoned well. The pasta was a little overdone for my liking and would have benefited from being a little more al dente. The portion was generous and was topped with a good sprinkling of grated parmesan. My only issue with the service was that we were left waiting 20 minutes with empty plates in front of us before having to ask for the Dessert menu. After ordering desserts (again we ordered the same; carrot cake with candied walnuts and anglaise cream) they arrived promptly and were generous portions. The carrot cake was excellent. I sometimes find it can be too sweet but this one was just right. My only issue with the dessert was the addition of a couple of mint leaves. To me, the flavours didn't work and if they're purely for presentation then I'd leave them off. After scoffing the dessert, my double espresso arrived. It was good if a little unspectacular.

We found The Candied Walnut to be very good value. Two main courses, two desserts, a glass of red wine, a tea and a double espresso came to an impressive €42.30 with the wine making up €5.50 of that. We really enjoyed our lunch and will certainly return for dinner in the not too distant future.

Lunch Ratings:

Food: 8/10
Service: 7/10
Ambience: 8/10
Selection: 8/10
Value for Money: 8/10

Overall: 8/10 Highly Recommended

Penne Arrabbiata

Penne Arrabbiata

Arrabbiata is the Italian word for 'angry', a name that suits this fiery dish perfectly! Hailing from the central part of Italy, this spicy sauce forms an important part of traditional Roman cuisine. As with a lot of Italian dishes, it's quick and simple but relies greatly on having good quality ingredients. 

Traditional arrabiata sauce is just garlic, crushed dried chilli (chilli flakes), tinned tomatoes, parsley and olive oil. I changed this up a bit as I like the extra sweetness and texture from adding onions. I also added some prosciutto di Parma and bresaola (cured beef) as I had some spare in the fridge. Feel free to add more chilli to make the sauce hotter or remove the seeds from the chilli for a more mellow taste. Arrabbiata sauce traditionally contains no meat so I've left the recipe below vegetarian but you can do as I did and add the cooked/cured meat about five minutes before it's ready. Gino D'Acampo has a great version of this recipe: he cooks some chopped fresh salmon in the sauce - delicious!

Serves 2

5 tbsp Extra-Virgin Olive Oil
1 clove of Garlic (finely chopped)
1 medium Onion (finely chopped)
1 Red Chilli (finely chopped)
1 tbsp Fresh Parsley (finely chopped)
1 Tin of Chopped Tomatoes
1 tsp Sugar
Sea Salt and Freshly Ground Pepper
240g Penne Pasta

1. Heat 3 tbsp of the oil over a medium heat and add the onion, garlic and chilli. Season well, stir and allow to cook for 7-10 minutes until softened but not coloured. Add the parsley, tin of chopped tomatoes and sugar, stir well and allow to simmer for 10 minutes. Add the remaining 2 tablespoons of oil and check for seasoning.

2 Meanwhile cook the pasta in plenty of boiling salted water for 9 minutes until al dente. Drain and add to the sauce. Serve sprinkled with a little parmesan cheese.

Ragu Pie

Leftover Ragu Pie

A good ragu is a beautiful thing; different meats stewed for hours with a little tomato to create a rich and delicious sauce. In Ireland this isn't usually the case. Here we tend to put in a bit of beef mince, a jar or two of (insert your favourite brand here) bolognese sauce and give it a half hour on the stove. We then add it to overcooked spaghetti and because spaghetti can't hold a thick sauce, we're left with a giant puddle of something that tastes like a very sweet tomato sauce with a little mince going through it. Try this instead:

Heat a good glug of extra-virgin olive oil over a medium heat and add a finely chopped onion. Cook for 2 minutes before adding a finely chopped carrot, a finely chopped chilli and a finely chopped stick of celery. Season well and cook for 5-7 minutes until soft but not coloured. Add 400 g of beef mince, 200 g of lamb mince, 200 g of pork mince and 2 finely chopped lamb kidneys. Season and brown all over before adding a glass of good red wine. Cook for 5 minutes and add 500 g of tomato passata and a teaspoon of dried oregano. Cover, reduce the heat and cook for 2-3 hours.

This will give you a delicious and deep flavoured ragu. Serve with tagliatelle or some penne pasta that will hold the sauce. Italians reckon 100g of pasta is enough per person but they generally have a couple of courses so I think for safety, if its the only course, I'd allow 120g per person.

Invariably, no matter how many have to be fed, I'm always left with plenty of leftover ragu. It's so filling that you don't need to serve massive portions; enough to coat the pasta is perfect. I've been thinking of ways to use up leftover ragu and a somewhat obvious Shepherd's Pie came to mind. It's not the same as the lamb filling but I thought it might be a nice change and it would create another substantial dish to feed many. If you only have a little ragu left don't worry; even a thin layer will be sufficient.



Preheat oven to 180 degrees. Peel as many sweet potatoes as you need and boil in lightly salted water until tender. Drain, season well and mash adding about half a glass of milk (or cream if you prefer) as you do so. Check for seasoning and add extra salt/pepper if required. Lightly oil a baking dish (one that you'd use for a Lasagna or a Shepherd's Pie will be perfect) and spread the ragu evenly over the base. Add a layer of Parma ham/prosciutto on top of the ragu and spread the sweet potato mash over the prosciutto. Flatten with a fork, creating little peaks as you go. Sprinkle plenty of pepper over the top and place in the oven to cook for 30-40 mins. Serve with good crusty bread.

This pie can be adapted to your own taste. Feel free to add a layer of Parmesan cheese after the prosciutto or swap the sweet potatoes for normal potatoes if you prefer. I didn't give exact quantities here as it depends how much ragu you have left. A thick layer is great but as I said above, a thin layer of ragu is fine, the rest can be made up with the sweet potato; its probably healthier!